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Atacama desert

Introduction

Flight from Santiago to Calama is a feerie trip. The Andes shine in all rainbow colors and geometric formations. The many more than 5000 m high volcanoes align like a pearl chain.

Landing inn the desert, one should not forget that Calama lies on an altitude of 2400 m.

Calama

If there was not the worldwide largest copper mine to visit, one could make a large detour around Calama. With a bit of luck, one finds a halfway acceptable rental car at the airport at an overrated prize, to start off to the Andes immediatly. A short aclimatation to the thinner air and the somewhat rough mentality is, however, advisable.

There are few hotels and it is therefore difficult to find a comfortable accommodation.

Every other hour the sleep is disturbed by the loud hunking at each railway crossing of the never ending freight train which transports the or from the mine.

To visit the copper mine Chuquicamata it is compulsory to register ahead. One needs to enroll at a special office, hoping that the waiting list is not too long.

The visit is worth the effort. The look down into the deep and gigantic crater is already impressive. At present the employees live in Calama and the surrounding settlements. The former township on the ground of the mine remains, however, as a kind of museum.

El Tatio

The trip from Calama to the geysers of El Tatio in 4265 m altitude leads in the beginning through a couple of desolate locations (Chiu-Chiu) and further on through complete emptyness. There are no possible accomodations, no food either. Provisions need to be already purchased in Calama. When camping, the desert fox comes for a visit at night in search of food. If you implore the guardian of the site, she may offer a place on the couch at the entry of the visitor center. Since the temperatures fall towards zero at night.

To see the geysers in full activity, it is advised to be on site already at 6 AM. Be careful where to put your feet. Since the earth crust is quite thin in some places. To warm up, one can sit in the hot pool.

San Pedro

The place is the tourist hotspot at 2400 m above sea level. Everyone is gathering here, starting from the back packers and up to the shriveled All Inclusive US tourists. The center, a mud road framed by low one and two story buildings, belongs to the tourists. Surrounded in concentric circles by hotels and holiday appartments and further on by the houses and industry of the locals.

Being at the right time on site, one can assist the “Candelaria”. This event takes place every year on February 2^nd in honour of the virgin of Candelaria. The main attraction are the dancing groups which are dressed in extraordinary traditionnal costumes. The music is ear blowing bad but the spectacle is, however, even more interesting. The whole cortège terminates in the church of Candelaria.

Salar de Atacama

There are several lagunas worthwhile visiting in the big salt pan of Atacama close to San Pedro.

The best known is probably the Laguna Céjar. Since here it is possible to take a swim. Swimming itself is, however, not so easy since the legs are always pushed to the surface by the salt water. Despite that, it is fun to paddle around in the salt, which remains as a crust on the skin. There is, however, a shower at the entry (no salt water).

Valle de la Luna

As the name indicates, these shining red rock formations resemble a lunar landscape, only more interesting. A narrow winding gorge leads up to a steep sand dune. You would not like to be there, when it starts raining. But it does. Then, San Pedro is under water and the desert blooms.

Valle de la Muerte

As spectacular, this formation is located just next to Valle de la Luna. The landscape reminds more of Mars. It is said, that Muerte stands for Mars. The highlight is of course the big dune, where one can descend on a snowboard. Not so spectacular with two to three slow curves at maximum from the top to the bottom. But the fantastic view on Licancabur with its 6250 m is an ample reward.

Altiplano

From San Pedro the national road leads up to 4800 m with the Licancabur volcano to the left and in direction of the Bolivian border. The road continues at an altitude of 4600 m passing the telescopes of “Atacama Large Millimeter Array” ALMA until the Laguna de Tara with Monjes Monolites. Looking at the overwhelming landscape but bare of any vegetation, you wonder where all the Vicuñas find their food.

Thermas de Puritima

Between San Pedro and El Tatio you find a narrow river bed with hot springs. Here one can relax in a number of natural pools, which are separated by small waterfalls. The site is managed by “Explora”. The entry fee corresponds to that of a European thermal station. But at least there are restrooms, showers and a Café.

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Glaciers

A good option is to fly to Balmaceda. A small wild west aerodrome at the border to Argentina and the Carretera del Sul. The offer includes the transfer (2.5 hours) from Balmaceda to Chacabuco. The only but nice hotel is Llubieras del Sul, which organizes also the trip to the San Raphael glacier with a Catamaran. The surroundings of the Carretera are relatively bald, since the forest has apparently caught fire during the construction of the road and burned for 5 years. The fire spread over the root network. Still today one can see everywhere fallen tree trunks.

Of course one cannot really expect European standards from a 4 star hotel in Patagonia. If the heating fails, that's it. And when it rains and storm , you have to adjust with it.

But the Llobieras del Sul can be recommended for its staff and the accommodation.

With some luck the journey to the glacier happens without too much rain and wind. Departure is at 8 o-clock with about 50 passengers. Most of which are Chileans.

The journey takes about 4.5 hours. All meals and beverages are served during the trip.

The glacier front is impressing. Especially, when approaching it in a RIB full of hooded and wet tourists. Unfortunately, then the sun is not shining as often as on the publicity photos.

For sure a recommendable day trip.

Llubieras del Sul also offers a small park, which should be visited. Renting a bike to go there can not be recommended (too expensive and no bike lanes).

The park offers a well maintained circuit. But the hotel staff are keen to organize a visit to the untouched part of the park, where one has to find a way through undergrowth and water puddles. At the end waits a lamb roasted on a wood fire.

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Volcanos

Pucon

Pucon is one of the most frequented holiday destinations in the lake region. The main attraction is of course the volcano Villarrica with a height of 2847 m. The region offers other activities like hot springs, Araucania forests and hiking trails.

The volcano is one of the most active ones of Chile. The last major outburst was in 2015. Fortunately, the author was already down in the valley by that time. The last activity happened in 2024.

Meanwhile the ski lift has been renewed with a bomb safe concrete dome at the top station.

The ascension is therefore shortened by some 100 m of climbing. The further ascension to the top requires crampons and an ice ax. Which is mainly needed to slow down when sliding down in the snow on plastic discs. The caldera with 200 m diameter and a depth of more than 100 m is really impressing. Especially when one discovers the lava lake down in the depth. In addition there is the fantastic view onto the lake Villarrica and the environment.

In the nearby park of Huerquehue one can admire nice waterfalls and especially the famous Araucania trees. The park offers a number of trails with small cabins allowing for hikes of several days.

The playa negra at lake Carburgua can be recommended for swimming. A white sandy beach and warm under water sources provide a great relief, if one arrives outside the Chilean holiday season.

Visit the Trails at Torres del Paine national park

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Torres del Paine

Dickson camp
From Los Perros on well kept forest lanes without important ascents.

Seron2Lago Amarga
From Camp Seron following the Paine river across meadows and passing groups of pasturing horses. After approximately 7 km bifurcation to the left. The right hand trail leads to the Torres hotel. Continuing along the Paine river. At km 11 bifurcation to the right. To the left leads to the Paine waterfalls.

LosPerros camp
Easy descent from the Gardener pass. Starting through gravel and bolders and then through laurel woods.

Gardener pass
From the Grey refuge along the rim of the Grey glacier. Several ladders cross a couple of gravel shoots. The view to the left onto the glacier is impressive. After 8.5 km starts the steep acsent to the pass.

Seron camp
A nice trail leads from Dickson along the Paine river until lake Paine. Followed by a longer ascension and at the end of the lake a short but steep descent to the river and Seron.

French Camp
Easy trail from Los Cuernos along the lake Nordenskiold.

Grey
Starting from Paine Grande the trail follows lake Grey without remarkable denivelations. Partially through laurel forest and with nice views on the lake and a couple of ice plates.

Laguna Amarga
The connection between the entry of the park and the Torres hotel can be covered on the hiking trail or by shuttle bus for lazy tourists.

Los Cuernos
Nice hiking trail from Las Torres to the Cuernos camp without noticeable denivelations. Good accommodation is provided here but mostly booked out.

Paine Grande
The distance from French camp to Paine Grande offers fantastic views on the Frances glacier in the Paine Grande massif. After the crossing of the Frances river, the trail leads along the lake Skottberg to the big Paine Grande hostel.

Torres del Paine
Probably the most frequented trail to the famous Torres del Paine. A comfortable and wide trail takes from the Torres hotel to the Chileno refuge. Continuing a while along the river. The ascension to the small lake at the foot of the Torres leads rather steep between rocks and boulders. But the view on the Torres is worth the effort. Even though the return is another 10 km. Of course easier if one of the few places in the Chileno refuge is still available.

Valle del Frances
The fantastic view at the end is certainly worth the effort. Best is a start from Los Cuernos and a return either on the same itinerary or continuing to Paine Grande.

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